Big time and completely unexpected! Low end is deeper, better articulation through the entire BW, far easier to follow the notes of the music, voices, and harmonies. Reproduced music has a dynamic snap that has me believing that it's a live event.
Much more important is being able to connect to the music on an emotional level, which is happening more so than ever before! Last night I was listening to Lou Reed's "The Blue Mask', and the emotions of fear, rage, anger, and love were palpable!
Overall there is a greater sense of realism with the wings than without. Highly recommended.
Cheers
Originally Posted by GM
Well the 825's (A7-500) have left the building, though the 416-8A's remain, but unmounted.
Retained are some 828G (factory capped flares) w/515-8G. Wing experiments continue, but I'd like to try lower tunings regardless.
I like the port approach, as it would seem to be easier to alter to taste once the baffles are in place.
Would the above mentioned (416-8A/825) approach work similarly for 515-8G/828G?
(I suspect 'no' :-) )
I suspect you're right WRT the lowest tuning unless driven with a very high output impedance since it's so far below the driver's Fs, so there's no protection against over excursion except by bouncing it off the mounting board, but only one way to know for sure.
FWIW, my rule-of-thumb is to limit Fb to > 0.707*Fs or ~26 Hz = single 5" dia. x 3" long vent.
If it still sounds too low tuned with dual 5" dia. x 1" tubes, then try different lengths of a trio of them.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
Excellent, thanks again GM.
I have seen your reference to high output impedance amps in other threads, do you have any examples of current-production models that fit the bill, or can you point me in the right direction as to what hints to look for marketing-wise?
Perhaps we're just talking those which actually have an impedance switch on the back, and that'd be the criteria?
Used recent-vintage Altec amps are tempting, but usually sans the requisite (?) impedance matching input transformer when found for purchase. That aspect keeps me away, not having a better understanding of what's required e.g. for 'line level' input of consumer gear.
I once modified a pair of ALTEC "MAGNIFICENTS" (like an A7 with bass horn on bottom & 511 HF inside) by removing internal HF 511 horns (which fired thru a MASSIVE PORT) and sealed off this port (this Mod was reversible so as not to damage these speakers' classic cosmetics).
This Mod, tho considered heresy by many Altec buffs, really fixed the poor bass performance and added more LF detail. Since the LF horn on these was on the floor, both of these were placed in corners for corner horn loading which extends horn loading to one quarter mouth cut-off (thus the ~120 hz horn became a ~30 hz horn). Sound was very pleasing and no SW was required !
So if you have some A7 bins, you could consider flipping them upside down and installing them in corners of a larger room.
GM,
5" ID tubes seem a little hard to come by, unless there is an obvious suggestion?
Mailers are avail, by the case though:
Jumbo Kraft Tubes
Have not exhausted all resources
Will see if one of the office stores will sell < case.
If untenable, can I substitute a like overall area, keeping the same length - or perhaps 'that is not how ports work' ?
i.e. 4" PVC is commonly available from home stores, and we can get close using it:
5" ID tube mouth area = 19.6349 in?
4" ID tube mouth area = 12.5663 in?
math:
19.6349 in? x 2 tubes = 39.2698 in?
12.5663 in? x 3 tubes = 37.6989 in?
Thanks for the suggestion!
A7's are gone, and the room is probably too small.
I do note, that taking 2 A5's and stacking them horn-horn does make an improvement (vs side to side). Moving them into the corners this way (any more than they are now that is) will likely wait a bit, as will sand-filling flares.
Even though they are 5/8" material, I had to unload the woofer in order to get one stacked on the other (without tempting damage to cabs or my back).
Greets!
You're welcome!
I'm sure there's some available, but I don't keep up with electronics, especially tube amps. Anyway, ideally what you want for a bass horn is a Class A PP tube amp with variable DF (adjustable bass boost) and a SET with either a ~matching impedance (i.e. 8 ohms of output impedance for an 8 ohm driver) or Class A PP tube amp with variable DF (treble boost) for the HF horn. If not bi-amped, then a Class A PP tube amp with both bass and treble controls.
None of this was for the impecunious way back when, so I imagine that due to the much lower volume of quality tubes, tranformers made today that if you have to ask the price you probably can't afford them. I mean the only one I've auditioned was considerably more than what I paid for my house back in the mid '70s. Regardless, there's plenty of folks here and on the various HE forums with their own 'bang/buck' alternatives.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
Cardboard mailing tubes work fine, though either my local Lowe's or Home Depot (I forget which) stocked 5" i.d. plastic drain pipe in 10 ft lengths as of last Christmas season.
Anyway, vents can be scaled and since its area is what sets its length, a smaller diameter (area) = shorter length and vice versa and since 'BIB' (bigger is better) rules in acoustics, better to scale up than down unless the vent is already fairly long, so (4) 4" (8" i.d. effective diameter) in a square cluster works for me.
Using a 1" length for dual 5" dia. pipes as an example, then L' for (4) 4" dia.:
L' = 1*(8^2/7.071^2)+(8-7.071^2)
L' = ~2.143"
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
Did someone say Class A PP tube amp !
Mine is a amp I call "The Train" its a D.I.Y. stereo PP type 45 DHT amp. It has 11 transformers in it and solid silver wire in the outputs. ( tried to post a pic but I'm out of space)
Then there was the manufactured DiyHiFi Joplin amp a Stereo PP 45 or 2A3 amp.
From what I remember it got pretty good reviews.
Niether of the amps I mentioned have variable D.F., but controlling an A5 in a Hifi setting these amps have no problem with that.
I'm sure others here have their perference at the other end of the power spectrum, but A5's / Altec drivers can offer such wide varieity of sound possibilities, even low power freaks can have great sounding systems.
Have fun!
"And the beat goes on"<br /> Willie
Thanks again GM. Unsure of the topology class, but I have a Peavey Classic 50/50 that may do the trick non-bi-amped. It has a cooling fan, but for taste-testing will suffice for the time being.
If warranted: http://www.peavey.com/media/pdf/manuals/80301636.pdf
I suspect I have additional original doc at home - as I recall a section regarding removal of the power tubes to allow it to output lower power. (e.g. IIRC, was a manufacturer endorsed approach). Perhaps that will reveal as well whether the class changes inherently with such a mod. (I suspect 'no', but have no knowledge). Will report back.
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